Guides & advice
Installing a birdhouse
The quality of the installation matters as much as the birdhouse itself. A few simple decisions are enough to provide a calmer, drier and safer refuge.
Install the birdhouse before the nesting season, ideally between autumn and the end of winter. Birds will then have time to discover it and become accustomed to it.
When should a birdhouse be installed?
Autumn and early winter are the best periods. Some tits begin prospecting as early as January, and several species use cavities as roosts in cold weather. Early installation also gives new wood time to lose its smell and the garden time to become quiet again before courtship begins.
You can install a birdhouse later if necessary, but never disturb a location that is already occupied. During the breeding season, observe only from a distance. In France, wild birds, their eggs and nests are legally protected: curiosity never justifies handling them or repeatedly opening the nest.
Seasonal guide
October to January: install it and let birds discover it. February to August: do not intervene around a birdhouse that is being visited. September to November: inspect and clean only when you are certain it is empty.
1. Choose a quiet place
Avoid permanently busy areas, branches accessible to cats and the immediate vicinity of a popular feeder. The approach to the entrance must remain clear.
Look at the setting as a bird would: is there a clear flight path to the entrance? Does a horizontal branch give a cat or marten access to the roof? Does a door slam just below? The birdhouse should be visible from birds' lookout points without being exposed at the centre of human activity.
Keep it away from the feeder. A gathering of many birds increases disturbance, competition and health risks, while a nesting pair seeks a quiet territory. Mixed hedges, native shrubs and nearby unmown areas are more useful: they provide insects and cover without artificially concentrating visitors.
2. Find the right orientation
In most gardens, an orientation between north and east limits direct sun, high temperatures and prevailing rain. Always adapt this recommendation to the actual exposure of your site.
Facing east or south-east often works well, away from prevailing winds and direct sun during the hottest hours. But a compass cannot replace observation: a reflective white wall, metal roof or paved courtyard can turn a theoretically suitable location into an oven in the afternoon.
Tilt the birdhouse very slightly forward. Water will then run away from the entrance rather than collecting on the floor. Also check that the roof overhangs and the drainage holes remain clear.
Watch before getting the ladder out
This demonstration by Permaculture Design connects entrance diameter, orientation, height and environment. It helps you visualise the checks to make on a tree or post before fixing the birdhouse.
3. Choose a suitable height
| Bird type | Indicative height | Preferred location |
|---|---|---|
| Small passerines | 2 to 4 m | Quiet tree or wall |
| Robins | 1.5 to 3 m | Discreet vegetated area |
| Swallows | A protected height | Beneath an eave |
| Owls and little owls | 4 m and above | Large tree or quiet building |
These heights are guidelines and safety must take priority. Never install a birdhouse at a level you cannot inspect without taking risks. A ladder must stand on stable ground and be held by another person. For a very high or façade installation, call a professional.
4. Fix it without harming the support
- Check the fixing system. It must support the weight of an occupied birdhouse over time.
- Keep the birdhouse upright. A very slight forward tilt helps water drain away.
- Protect the tree. Use a suitable strap or a fixing that will not cut into the growing trunk.
- Test its stability. The birdhouse must not rotate or knock against its support in the wind.
On a tree, a wide adjustable strap is often the simplest solution. Check it every autumn: the trunk grows, and a forgotten fixing can strangle the bark. If you use coated wire, place battens between the wire and trunk. Avoid ordinary nails; aluminium nails are an exception where a nailed fixing is essential.
On a wall, use wall plugs suited to the material and leave a small ventilated gap behind the birdhouse. Never drill before checking for cables or pipes. Beneath an eave, make sure water from the gutter cannot fall in front of the entrance.
5. Leave enough distance
Many species defend a territory. Space out birdhouses intended for the same species, except for birds that naturally nest in colonies, such as some swallows.
As a guide, allow 15 to 20 m between blue tit birdhouses, 40 to 50 m for great tits and more for some territorial species. House and tree sparrows are exceptions: they can nest alongside one another in colonies designed for them.
After installation: observe without disturbing
The technical work ends here. The most delicate part now begins: knowing how to keep your distance.
The best monitoring is done from a window or fixed observation point with binoculars. Regular trips carrying moss, grass or food indicate occupancy. Do not approach to ‘check’: an adult waiting for you to leave before feeding its young wastes time and energy.
- Note the date of the first visits without changing the surroundings
- Keep cats and dogs away, especially when young birds fledge
- Do not photograph at the entrance or play bird calls from a phone
- Use no pesticides in the pair's feeding area
- Wait until autumn before correcting the fixing or orientation
A well-installed birdhouse becomes part of the landscape. After installation, a gardener's most important quality is discretion.
Observe from afar and intervene at the right time
The most common mistakes
- Placing the entrance in full afternoon sun
- Adding an unnecessary external perch that helps predators gain access
- Installing the birdhouse too close to a feeder
- Opening the birdhouse regularly during nesting
- Moving the birdhouse after its first unoccupied season
If the birdhouse remains empty
Silence in the first season is information, not a verdict.
An unoccupied first season is not a failure. The target species may already have natural cavities, the territory may already be occupied or the birdhouse may have been discovered too late. Leave it in place for a full season, then reassess in autumn: stability, overheating, entrance diameter, disturbance and the species' actual presence.
Do not move it repeatedly in spring. If a correction is needed, photograph the location, note the hours of sun and intervene only outside the occupancy period. This small discipline turns a vague impression into a useful diagnosis.
Frequently asked questions
Can I install a birdhouse on a balcony?
Yes, if the balcony is quiet, shaded during hot hours, inaccessible to cats and has a clear flight path. The front and height must suit a species genuinely present in the town or city.
Must it always face east?
No. The main aim is to avoid prevailing winds, driving rain and overheating. East or south-east often works in France, but the support's actual microclimate takes priority.
Can I look inside?
For a private individual, the safest rule is not to open it during breeding. Observe movements from a sufficient distance and open it only for autumn cleaning when you are certain it is unoccupied.
Should the birdhouse move in the wind?
No. Even a hanging model should remain as stable as possible. Repeated movement, impacts against its support and water ingress compromise its appeal and durability.